Cooking in Afro-Peruvian communities is an act of resistance that celebrates and preserves the culinary traditions of Black Peru. One iconic dish from those communities is carapulcra, a spicy and hearty potato or garbanzo stew.

Carapulcra de Garbanzos

Afro-Peruvian chickpea stew with peanuts.

Serves 4

Carapulcra is an ancestral stew that my Quechua and Inca ancestors made with papa seca (dehydrated potatoes). Families that migrated from the Andes mountains to the coast brought the stew with them. Over time, creole cooks incorporated cloves, cinnamon, and anise. Today, Afro-descendant communities in the town of Chincha south of Lima prepare three versions: papa seca, fresh potato, or chickpea carapulcra—and all of them are part of the soul food of Black Peru. Here, toasting dry chickpeas adds smoky flavor and crunchy texture, native Peruvian hot peppers aji panca and aji amarillo give heat to the onion aderezo base, and five spice adds aromatics. Peanut butter makes the stew creamy, while agave and red wine provide balance and depth. Colorful pickled cabbage brightens the dish. Accompany the carapulcra with a side of steamed rice to absorb the stew’s savory juices.

Pickled Purple Cabbage

2 cups thinly sliced purple cabbage strips
2 teaspoons lime juice
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
dash salt

Stew

1 cup dried chickpeas
4 cups water
4 tablespoons peanut oil
1 cup diced red onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons aji panca paste
2 teaspoons aji amarillo paste
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon five spice
2 cups vegan beef stock
1 tablespoon creamy peanut butter
4 tablespoons agave
3 tablespoons red wine (such as Malbec)
cilantro leaves and roasted peanuts for garnish

Combine the purple cabbage, lime juice, white wine vinegar, and salt in an airtight container. Seal and shake well to mix. Refrigerate for 1 hour before using.

In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the dried chickpeas, stirring often, until they begin to brown, about 8 minutes. Transfer the toasted chickpeas to a large pot, and cover with at least 1-inch water, about 4 cups. Bring to a boil, then turn off heat, cover, and let soak for 2 hours. Strain before using.

In a 2-quart pot with peanut oil over medium heat, sauté the red onion with garlic until the onion becomes translucent, about 5 minutes. Mix in aji panca, aji amarillo, salt, pepper, cumin, oregano, and five spice. Stir occasionally, for 5 more minutes.

Add the toasted chickpeas plus the stock, stir well to mix. Bring to a simmer and cook until the liquid reduces to the level of the chickpeas, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the peanut butter, agave, and red wine. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Serve the stew in bowls and top with pickled cabbage. Garnish with cilantro leaves and roasted peanuts. Accompany with a side of steamed white rice.

To infuse the dish with the soulfulness of Black Peru, play some Afro-Peruvian music while you are cooking. Here’s a song by the iconic group Peru Negro:

Pisco Trail

Carapulcra de Garbanzos